Do I really need a buyer's agent at the builder's model home? They seem nice and helpful.
Yes — and you need to register me BEFORE your first visit. The friendly model-home rep is paid by the builder and reviewed by the builder. They will not negotiate against their employer for you. They will not flag bad contract language. They will not push the punch list. My commission is paid out of a line item the builder has already budgeted whether you bring an agent or not — so you get representation at zero cost. Walking in alone gives up your representation and saves the builder a commission. That is the math.
What are CDD fees and why do they matter so much?
A Community Development District is a special-purpose unit of local government created to fund infrastructure (roads, water, sewer, amenities) for a new community. The CDD floats a bond and homeowners repay it via an annual assessment on top of property tax. In Nocatee, RiverTown, Wildlight, TrailMark, SilverLeaf, and most NE FL MPCs, CDD assessments run $1,000-$4,000/year per home and the bond portion lasts about 30 years. The bond can be paid off lump-sum (typically $20K-$60K depending on community and lot size) but most owners just pay it monthly with their taxes. We pull the exact CDD disclosure for any home you are serious about — BEFORE you sign — so the tax bill in November is not a surprise.
Is the builder's lender incentive really the best deal?
Sometimes yes, sometimes no — and the only way to know is to shop. By federal law (TRID / RESPA), once you receive a Loan Estimate from the builder's captive lender, you have a 10-day shopping window during which you can request competing Loan Estimates without affecting your terms. I always run at least one independent quote in parallel — same loan amount, same term, same down payment — and compare full cost (rate, points, fees, MI). If the captive wins after counting the builder credit, we use them. If the independent beats the package even after losing the credit, we switch. I have seen both outcomes in 2026.
What is the 1-2-10 warranty and what does it actually cover?
1-2-10 is shorthand for the standard new-construction warranty structure: 1 year on workmanship and materials, 2 years on mechanical and electrical systems (plumbing, electrical, HVAC distribution), and 10 years on major structural defects. Most NE FL builders back this through a third-party administrator like 2-10 Home Buyers Warranty. The key thing buyers miss: each clock starts at closing and the obligation to file inside the window is on YOU. Schedule the 11-month inspection for month 10, file one consolidated punch list before month 12, and document mechanical items aggressively in months 18-22 before the 2-year wall.
What's the catch with builder rate buydowns?
Two catches. (1) On a 2/1 buydown, your rate is 2% below market in year 1 and 1% below in year 2 — then it snaps to the full note rate in year 3. You must qualify at the full note rate, and you should save the difference in years 1-2 to absorb the jump. (2) The captive lender's underlying note rate may be 0.25-0.625% higher than true market — so the "deal" is partly paying down a rate that was already inflated. Run an independent Loan Estimate to compare apples-to-apples. Permanent buydowns (full 30-year below-market rate) are a better deal than temporary buydowns when available.
How do builder upgrades compare to doing the same work after closing?
Rule of thumb: the design center charges 2-4x what a local contractor charges for the same work post-close. The smart upgrades to do AT the design center are: (a) structural changes (extended garage, bonus room, gourmet kitchen layout), (b) anything inside the walls (extra outlets, pre-wired speakers, plumbing rough-in for future bar), and (c) major appliance upgrades where the difference is small. The dumb upgrades are: closet systems, plantation shutters, epoxy garage floor, ceiling fans, landscape packages, and most paint/finish upgrades — all of which are 40-60% cheaper post-close from a local installer. I have a spreadsheet I walk every buyer through before the design center appointment.
What inspections should I get on new construction, and at what stages?
Four inspections, all by independent inspectors (not the builder's QC). (1) Pre-pour foundation inspection — $300-$500. Catches plumbing rough-in errors, missing vapor barrier, bad termite pre-treat. (2) Pre-drywall inspection — $400-$700. Catches framing, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and flashing issues before they are buried behind drywall. (3) Final walkthrough inspection — $400-$600. Generates the official punch list. (4) 11-month warranty inspection — $350-$500. Catches everything that emerged in year one before the workmanship warranty expires. Total ~$1,500-$2,300 — the single best money spent on the entire transaction.
Can I really negotiate with a new-home builder?
Yes, and you should — but the lever depends on the builder and the market. In May 2026, with $30K-$60K average incentives nationally, builders are negotiating more aggressively than at any point since 2009. The leverage points: (1) standing inventory (already built, sitting) negotiates hardest, (2) end-of-quarter pushes for sales, (3) lender incentive vs price reduction trade-offs, (4) design center credits, (5) closing-cost concessions, and (6) lot premium reductions. The myth: "builders never come off price." The truth: builders will not come off PUBLISHED base price (it would screw their comp set), but they will discount via incentives, credits, and lot premiums to the same net effect. I know which builder negotiates what.
What's the deal with post-close grading and drainage issues?
Builders finish lots to an engineered drainage plan. The plan is on paper. Real-world drainage depends on rainfall, neighbor lots being finished, sod establishing, and a dozen other variables. Common year-one issue: water ponds against the foundation, the side yard becomes a swamp, or the swale runs the wrong direction. ALL of this is covered under the 1-year workmanship warranty IF you document it in writing and submit before month 12. After that, you are paying $3K-$15K to regrade your own lot. I do a written drainage check after the first major storm and again at month 9 — photos, video, and a formal warranty submission if anything is off.
Are the schools in these new MPCs really as good as advertised?
St. Johns County (Nocatee, RiverTown, TrailMark, SilverLeaf, eTown south) is consistently ranked the #1 school district in Florida and top 25 nationally — it is genuinely as advertised. Nassau County (Wildlight) has solid schools and the brand-new Yulee schools serving Wildlight are A-rated. Clay County (Eagle Harbor, Oakleaf) has strong but uneven schools — some excellent, some average. Duval County (eTown north) is the most varied — verify the specific school assignment for any home you tour, because Duval boundaries can shift annually. I pull the exact zoned schools and current Florida DOE grade for every home you are serious about.